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Frequently Asked Questions

Guarantee / Warranty / Certification

The following names are on the NRSB/NEHA and State of WI Proficiency Lists. Most of these companies cover parts of Northeast Wisconsin. For additional information, visit the certifying organizations’ web sites: NEHANRSBWI State Radon Program. This link will bring you to a list of certified Radon testers.

The fan can get full of bug larvae. This is not covered under the manufacturer’s warranty. The bugs build up and throw off the weight of the bearing which causes the fan to fail before the warranty period of five years. These things came from under the slab in the basement. So, it is not a defect of the fan, but a bug problem under the slab.

The slab could be treated around the perimeter and / or the fan taken off in the fall to make sure there is no more build up. If there is, a wire brush can be used to clean the fan fins. The only time any kind of maintenance would need to be done on a system is if there is a history of it. We do not know what kind of bug larvae causes this problem.

The other time a fan would not be covered under warranty is if someone turns off or unplugs the fan and it sits for a month or two. The fan will become rusted inside and then may not work when turned on again. A fan turned off in the winter will lock up because moisture in the exhaust pipe will come down into the fan and freeze. These fans are made to stay on 24 / 7 and should only be turned off if we recommend it over the phone or if the system is being worked on. If someone goes on vacation or south for the winter the system / fan should be left on. The money saved by turning if off is only a few dollars, but if the fan does not work after turning back on, it could cost a few hundred to replace.

It is unfortunate that some businesses rely on negative or untrue statements to try to increase their sales. We believe that being negative does the exact opposite. I really hate having to respond to something like this, but I feel that everyone should know the whole truth. Please read on.

We put a written guarantee on our contracts and then sign it. If we didn’t follow up on a system that failed a Radon test after the first time, (and there have been a couple) then we would be opening ourselves up for litigation, and wouldn’t have a leg to stand on if it went to court.

We can provide proof of our great follow up from the few customers that have had this experience. You can read more about a home that we had trouble getting to pass on the first, second, third, fourth try. And remember, many times we are not guaranteeing just 3.9 pCi/L, but 1.9 pCi/L.

This home is in Neenah, my home town. I suggested after many trips and failed tests that the owner could call another company that does Radon mitigation work if they wanted to, because they might see something we were missing. My main concern was to get the home to pass a Radon test. I didn’t tell the owner to call someone else because I was giving up and didn’t want to deal with him anymore, as our competition will tell you. If there was something we didn’t think of, then I was open to trying it.

The only suggestion from the other company was to dismantle one of the systems that was installed and relocate it because they thought there might be some blockage restricting the air flow. Relocating a suction point/system in this case was not a viable solution in my opinion because of the low resistance on the U-Tubes on both systems, meaning the air is moving very quickly or no blockage.

Our competition used this one home for the basis to put an add in the local Yellow Pages that stated, “Ask Us About Phony Guarantees.” This ad was directed toward our company and the initial failure of the systems at the home in Neenah. Even though the home has since passed, with no modifications by our competitor, with a level of 0.8 pCi/L, which is close to outside air conditions. Instead of using this home as a kind of case study in conjunction with our business, they used it as an opportunity to slander our company. They are telling people that they are continuing to do diagnostic testing at the home. What would be the purpose after you get a passing test? We understand why the home initially failed. The only reason they want to be in that home is to find something so they can speak negatively about our company.

Let me state this: We will make as many trips as needed, take as much time as needed, and consult with as many experts that I know that have been in the Radon business since its inception, in order to get a home to pass a Radon test. This business is a corporation, but I (David Daniels) am the sole stock holder. This business is the only source my family has to rely on for income, and we have invested everything we have into this business. There is no way that I would jeopardize our family’s future for any reason. I would rather not get a job and be honest than get one by unethical means. The home in Neenah took a very long time for the suction field to set up and pull enough air from across the slab instead of vertically though a crack in the earth created when they used explosives to blast for the foundation. This home has passed a Radon test with a long term test, which is the best way to conduct a test if you have time on your side. If the home had failed the long term test there were a few more options in approaching a fix.

Fortunately the long term test came in at 0.8 pCi/L. As a Christian based company I will not speak ill willed of our competitors. Every one that installs Radon mitigation systems does similar things and most systems will pass on the first try. We feel however that the things we do different and with what we offer, we will provide the best overall service and install the best overall Radon mitigation system. We have a link to references on our home page and can provide a list of hundreds of satisfied customers, which include owners of local Real Estate companies that used our business to install systems in their own homes, and builders like Andrew Homes, Schmidt Brothers Custom Homes, Leppla Homes, Homes by Bill Rounds, Vans Construction & Classic Homes, Rucon Construction, J & S Homes, Keystone Homes, Flagstone Construction, Jon Huss Construction, Baylakes Homes, Benchmark Development, Tim Pack Const., Kenlin Homes, Portside Properties, Providence Const, Wick Homes and the list goes on and on and on and on.

Most companies have liability insurance; some have workers comp. A company should provide you with written proof before they begin work, for your protection. Most companies don’t have completed works insurance. This type of coverage protects you once we leave your home. After we leave, if anything would happen or if any damage was caused to your home, you’re still protected. For example, if a Radon fan caused a fire (one chance in a million), both the fan manufacturer and our company would cover the damages. If a company does not have completed works insurance, when they leave your home there’s no insurance coverage to protect your home regarding their system and workmanship. A smaller company may not be able to afford to pay for any damages, leaving you, the customer, holding the bill.

The EPA stopped their certification process back in 1998. The EPA’s web site states that no company or individual should advertise or state that they are EPA listed/certified or that their systems meet EPA guidelines. There are NO EPA certified Radon mitigation companies. Any such claims are completely false.

Two organizations certify radon mitigators. We belong to the NEHA (National Environmental Health Association). The other certifying organization is the NRSB (National Radon Safety Board). There is no reason to be members of both. The NRSB will certify you if you provide proof of certification with NEHA and send them a check.

We are also members of AARST (American Association of Radon Scientists and Technologists). AARST recently purchased NEHA, which will help maintain standards and pass along any new information. I’m a member of AARST to stay on top of new technologies or methods for testing and mitigation. I attend their national syposium every other year.

The State of Wisconsin offers no certification or license, but simply adopts the certification of NEHA or NRSB and puts out a contractor’s proficiency list.

Radon Levels

Yes, we have. And by standing by our guarantee we wound up losing money. This is a risk in business that we take, by guaranteeing the system. A home in Neenah had to have the foundation excavated by blasting with explosives. Normally, that is not a problem. But in this case, there must be large cracks in the ground under the sub slab material. We actually installed two systems on this house.

The first system lowered the Radon readings from 20 pCi/L to 10 pCi/L. We then installed a fan that could suck out twice the air volume. After another test, the results came back at about 8 pCi/L. We then thought that maybe something was blocking the air flow under the slab, so we installed the second system directly into the sump pit. With an inner & exterior drain tile running into the pit, we could pull air through every perforation in the drain tiles. Every perforation acts as though we cut another suction point through the slab.

After one more test the results came in at 6 pCi/L. The systems are moving about 400 cfm, which is a lot. Normally, a home can get the levels lowered with less than 50 cfm. After many trips to the home, and much consultation with other mitigation companies, we came to two possible conclusions. #1 if there are large cracks in the ground under the home, there is no system for a home that will reduce the levels all the way down. #2 is the Radon coming from the building materials? Probably not, because we have treated other homes in the area that are the same age, and most builders hire the same companies for foundation and drainage work. If there had been a plastic membrane put down before the gravel was poured for the sub slab material, there wouldn’t have been a problem in reducing the levels.

We are going to conduct a long term test on this home next, which will last three months. Hopefully by that time the systems will have lowered the levels to below 4 pCi/L. (GOOD NEWS !! THE LONG TERM TEST RESULTS CAME IN AT 0.8 pCi/L. So, it took some time, but the systems did end up pulling enough air from under the slab. Thank God.)

Sometimes when a system is installed and there are drain tiles exposed to daylight there could be a problem. With open drain tiles air from outside is pulled in instead of air under the home sucked out. A backflow prevention device can be installed on the exposed drain tile to take care of that problem.

Some systems with pipes smaller than 3 inches can prevent enough airflow from reducing levels, and tend to freeze up in the winter.

If there is a large basement, and no sump/drain tile system, with clay or wet sand for sub slab material it may not be able to be treated. One suction point may not be enough for this situation, and a very strong fan would be needed. Homes like this are usually older. They may also have block walls separating rooms in the basement. If these walls have footings, they may cut off the air flow to remove the Radon. We may not guarantee a system in a home like this if we can not install multiple suction points. We would do everything possible to get the levels lowered, but it is all about physics. If you can’t pull enough air, you won’t reduce levels.

First, consider your source. Are they an expert in Radon or your brother-in-law who read something on the Internet about Radon? Much of what is on the Net about Radon is in general terms for the whole country. Our area of NE WI has different circumstances than Alabama. You may get a higher test result in the winter, but not by much. With the 5,000 plus tests we have done and all the tests we have seen from other companies and home inspectors, there has not been a large difference in seasonal testing. If you were to test in the spring and test high you would want to correct it. Why wait until winter to test and possibly live with higher levels longer? As long as the protocols are met, whether it is a short term or long term test, it will be accurate. It all depends on what time of year you find out about the dangers of Radon. If you haven’t tested yet, then do one ASAP no matter what the season is. If you are borderline pass / fail, then do a long term test (3-12 months) and include some winter months.

I get asked this question all the time. First of all, Canada’s level was 8 pCi/L. It was just reduced recently. Realize that have a socialist form of government. When a home tests high (above 5) their government has to pay for the Radon mitigation system to be installed. Their action level is not based on health or risk; it is based on finances. The Canadian government can not afford to set the level any lower. Remember a level of only 4 pCi/L for 8 hrs a day is the same as 200 chest X-Rays a year. The first home that was ever mitigated in the US was able to brought down to a level of 4 pCi/L. This was after the home was tore apart and new fill was bought in. This home sat on a main Uranium deposit. It had tested in the thousands of Pico Curies. That’s why our level is at 4 pCi/L. Most homes can be lowered below 2 pCi/L if not below 1 pCi/L. Outside ambient levels are at 0.4 pCi/L.

A curie is a measurement of radiation. Madame Curie discovered this measurement. One Pico curie is equal to one trillionth of a curie.

Radon Testing

A short term test takes 48 – 96 hours. A long term test takes three months. We mostly provide short term tests by customer request, however if you have the time, a long term test is the better option. If you don’t qualify for the FREE Radon Test Program and don’t want to risk having to pay $100/$150, please see How to Radon test your home. By following these directions, you can get accurate results and control the test yourself. If you have time on your side, you can conduct a long term test, which is the best test of all. Long term Alpha Trac test Kits for do-it-yourself testing are available at the office.

Yes, you can, but I wouldn’t recommend it. First of all, subcontractors will be entering the home to complete work. Even with signs posted that a Radon test is being conducted, most subs are only concerned about getting their work done. I’m not saying subs are bad, it’s just a fact. If they need to open a window, they’ll open it, and that invalidates the test. There’s no way to watch the home 24 hours a day.

Second reason, and this is the most important … no one is living there. A vacant home gives the lowest possible Radon levels. If we test a vacant, new construction home, the test will only be valid under those conditions. As soon as you move in and start using kitchen fans, bath fans, opening & closing external doors, use the furnace or air conditioning, the Radon levels in the home will rise. This is because the vacuum effect of the home will increase, which pulls more Radon into the home. It’s not uncommon to see a new or vacant home pass a test at 2 pCi/L. Then six months later, after someone moves in and performs another test, Radon levels come in at 6 pCi/L or even higher. I’ve seen this happen many times. If you want a Radon test on a new and/or vacant home, you may want to write something in the contract, stating that you want to have this test performed after you move in.

There are a few areas in Wisconsin that have elevated radon levels in water, including Marathon and Waukesha counties. Most of northeast Wisconsin has relatively low levels of Radon in water. If you have a private well, you might want to consider testing. However, the chances of having a problem are low. The ratio of Radon in water to airborne Radon is 10,000 to 1. This means you would have to have 40,000 pico curies of Radon in your water supply to equal 4 pico curies of airborne Radon. The average for our area is 300 to 700 pico curies of Radon in water. If your water supply did test above 40,000 it would take a special water aeration system to get rid of it. This system could cost $6,000 to $8,000.

Expenses

Here’s a breakdown of what it would cost if you hired separate companies to install the system.

  • Seal sump pit by plumber $100-$150
  • Replace pedestal sump pump with submersible (if needed) by plumber $225
  • Drill hole through slab and make suction point by concrete cutting company $200-$275
  • Install piping from slab up through roof by plumber/pipe fitter $600
  • Install roof flashing by roofer $150
  • Install electrical by electrician $100
  • Radon fan $150
  • Post Radon test: $25 for home owner (non real estate), $100 for real estate transactions

Total $1,325 to $1,500 … or $1725 with sump pump. We do all the above in one trip and are qualified to do all the work. $800 is a bargain! By the time you add up all the expenses to get someone to your home, purchase the supplies for a system, plus cover the day to day expenses such as insurance, gas, salaries, mortgage, utilities, advertising and etc., it averages $700 to $750. So we make very little profit charging what we do. If someone is less expensive than us, they may not be including all the necessary items in a system or doing the electrical properly, so make sure you compare system to system, item to item. If someone else does what we do they probably can’t match our price. We do far more systems than anyone else and can buy items in bulk, where they will not be able to.

There is no one size fits all, because every home is different. Prices go from $500 for a simple passive system to $2,000.00 for a complicated, multiple suction point system. The average price, however, is $750 to $900.

We offer a FREE Radon Test Program to home owners (non-real estate transactions) within a 40-mile radius of our office. Otherwise, the test costs $100.00 for the Fox Valley, $100 now too for Green Bay, Waupaca, and Fond du Lac. We use Sun Nuclear Professional continuous monitors, which give hourly readings. These monitors are also certified accurate. A printout is also made with the average after the test, so you don’t have to wait for results from a lab. If a home tests above 3.9 pCi/L and you hire us to mitigate, then we will waive the test fee.

Installation Best Practices

Every system is different, but we can usually finish an installation within three to four hours. Some very dificult homes have taken all day.

This is a new Radon mitigation system offered by HomeAire, a nationwide company. We will offer more of their products in time, but for now will concentrate on the ADC system. You can still purchase a regular Radon mitigation system and everything that goes with it. But the ADC has a different fan that comes with a 5 year warranty, and a different way of installation. We cannot divulge what is different with the fan or installation because they are trade secrets. What we can say is that the ADC system will give you a money back satisfaction guarantee that your moisture level will be lowered in your basement. This will save money because your dehumidifier will run less. And because of the lowered moisture level it will combat Mold, Mildew & Bacteria, which is the number one cause of damage in a home. Having lower moisture levels can also help with allergies. The system also pulls other noxious gases out including Radon. The price is higher than a normal Radon system. But with the money back satisfaction guarantee there is no risk.

A 4 inch pipe will give you more air flow. On commercial systems, 6 inch pipe is sometimes used. With a 4 inch pipe you have less options as to where you can fit in a system. I believe that when you have clay or wet sand for sub slab material a 4 inch pipe will help. But when a home has a drain tile system and or gravel for sub slab material a 3 inch pipe will more than do the job. If you pull directly from the drain tile a 2 inch pipe would even work. But the 3 inch gives good air flow without the large size of the 4 inch. In other words, if you can use a smaller pipe, and the system is guaranteed to lower the Radon level for life, why use a bigger pipe? And a recent study conducted in Milwaukee showed that a 4 inch pipe will raise energy costs of the system vs. a 3 inch pipe.

The Radon fan must be placed in unlivable space due to the possibility of an exhaust leak. It cannot be in the basement, a closet, or in a garage that has a finished ceiling. The Radon fan must be outside or in an attic that does not have livable space above it. It can be in a garage that has exposed rafters/trusses. Although we prefer to put the fan above the trusses to avoid possible bumping that may damage the fan. The end of the vent pipe must be a minimum of 10 ft off grade whether it is installed inside or out. The vent must also be a minimum of 2 ft above any openings, while maintaining the 10 ft above grade guideline. If the vent is not 2 ft above an opening, then it must be 10 ft from it, and maintain the 10 ft above grade rule.

Remember that the Radon on the exhaust side of a fan can be hundreds of pico curies if not a thousand. If the fan assembly leaked and you didn’t realize it, you could be exposed to extreme levels of radiation. The vent must be a certain height & distance from openings is to protect you from possible exhaust entry into the home, which could contain extreme levels of Radon. If you have an active Radon system and the vent is not a proper height or distance from openings, or the Radon fan is in livable space, you should turn off the system until it can be fixed. An improper system poses a greater threat to you then living with the original Radon levels.

Our goal is to meet every EPA guideline. However, there is one guideline that has had much debate. The guideline states that the Radon vent pipe needs to be above the highest eve of the roof of a home. If a home has a gable end, whether a ranch or multi-story, and the system is routed outside on the gable end and the pipe is at the proper height plus 2 feet above all openings within 10 feet, does the vent pipe need to continue past the eve? To date, there has been no evidence that continuing the vent pipe past the highest eve has any effect on the system or anyone inside the home.

This debate is mainly over aesthetics. If the height and distance requirements can be met, why continue the pipe any higher? This standard would prevent the pipe from going out the back of the garage roof on multi-story homes. All systems would have to be routed up through livable space to reach the highest eve. This guideline was written in the 80’s when mitigation was in its infancy. The AARST and concerned independent businessmen, such as me, are trying to change this guideline. Because there has not been any documented proof of any benefit of this guideline, we deviate from it. Each system will meet every guideline, such as a minimum of 10 ft off grade, 2 ft above openings or 10 ft from the opening.

A Radon system needs to be on its own separate system. It needs to pull air from under the slab and foundation. If it is connected to any other vents or systems it will prevent those systems from working properly. Imagine if a fan that sucks air was connected to a plumbing vent. The fan drawing air could dry out the water traps in the plumbing system and then sewer gases would back up into the home. Because the fan needs to be located in unlivable space and you need to have access to the fan, it normally can not be run up a chimney. The vertical pipe needs to be supported so it can support the weight of the fan and not transfer a lot of noise, which would happen if the pipe could not be supported properly. Also the pipe is PVC so it can not be near a heat producing device which could melt the pipe. The hardest part of installing a Radon system is the aesthetics, or where to route the system. We try to hide the systems as best as possible given what is in front of us. On existing homes you have to go around everything that is already in place. We can route the system up through a closet or inside of a wall if the drywall is taken down. But most of the time you will see a pipe in the garage or outside of the home.

No! If you have a Radon level of 4 – 5 pCi/L, and you are selling your home, then this might be an option to get one passing Radon test. Keep in mind that Radon will not be removed this way, but the rate of entry might be slowed down temporarily. If water can get into your basement, so can Radon.

If Radon can no longer enter where you caulked or sealed a sump pit, it will seek out another area to enter. It may take awhile, maybe a few months, but it will happen. Remember, the pressures have not been changed in the home. Sealing cracks may also be a waste of time & money. If the home is newer, a plastic layer should have been laid down before the slab was poured. This layer is for moisture control and helps slow Radon. It also helps create a tight suction field when an active mitigation system is installed. However, if there are large gaps at the cold joint, they should be caulked because the plastic probably does not go all the way to the foundation wall. Levels will be different with every test.

If you do these things to get a passing Radon test you might get lucky. However, you have to know what the goals are of the buyers. Do they want a consistent low level every hour, everyday? Sealing the pit will not achieve this. Many people call us to have this done, and we will do it. But, there is no guarantee that you will have consistent low levels. One of the builders we work for is Schmidt Brothers Custom Homes. We actually put in a proper passive system during construction. (Schmidt Brothers now has ADC systems installed in every home.)

In addition, Schmidt Brothers also has sealed sump pits installed, and a thick plastic layer put over the gravel before the basement slab is poured. Once the home is finished we conduct a Radon test with a continuous monitor. About 50% of the homes fail the test, so we end up adding the Radon fan to make the system active. Another Radon test is conducted, and the levels are almost always below 1 pCi/L. So, if sealing a sump pit took care of a Radon problem, and they have a proper passive system installed, then why are we installing systems in homes that have every crack sealed, the sump crock sealed & vented?

It’s simple, to get rid of Radon you need to change the pressure that is under the slab of the home. The best, most economical, and most effective way is to have an active mitigation system installed. If the home is being sold, and the level was tested at 5 pCi/L then the pit is sealed and another test was done which came in at 3.5 pCi/L you can give the buyers that test. What happens if they do another test 6 months down the road and the levels are back up to 5 pCi/L? Without actively sucking it out, levels will be inconsistent. The problem was not fixed. Lets say their 2 kids played in the basement every day for at least a couple of hours for 3 years before they did another home test and their test comes in at 5 pCi/L. What do you think they are going to do when they find out that their kids were exposed to levels that are above the EPA recommended levels? You just opened yourself for a lawsuit, which will cost a lot more than having an active system installed from the start. When the buyers received that passing test of 3.5 pCi/L, they were under the assumption that the problem was permanently fixed. Our goal is to fix the problem, not put a bandage on it and hope we get one passing test. The goal is always to get levels to as close to outside air levels, which are 0.4 pCi/L.

When I first started this business in July of 2000, the general rule-of-thumb was to caulk every crack, expansion joint, cold joint, nook and cranny in the basement. In some homes it’s necessary to caulk everything. But in most homes, we’ve learned through experience, that it’s not necessary or desirable to caulk everything. In the case of an older home with clay or sand under the slab, when there is no drain tile / sump pit and no plastic vapor barrier present under the slab, it may be required to caulk everything for the system to operate properly and pull enough air from under the slab to lower Radon levels. However, most homes in our area have gravel as sub slab material, interior and / or exterior drain tiles, weeping holes through footings and a plastic vapor barrier under the slab, so you actually want some air leakage.

If we hear air whistling after the system is up and running, then we’ll caulk that air leak. If our smoke bottle shows large air leaks at an expansion joint or cold joint, we’ll caulk. But in the case of small spider cracks or a small gap at the cold/expansion joint we will not caulk. Some air should be pulled down, under the slab to “condition” the air under the slab. This helps keep the basement a little warmer in the winter, and helps to lower moisture in the summer. In either case, it makes the basement space more livable and can help lower energy bills. With proper attention to the amount and size of any and all air leaks, and caulking those that should be caulked, there is virtually no risk of appliance back-drafting.

If outside air is coming in where the house meets the foundation, then your Radon system will suck that outside air into the home. These leaks should be sealed to make the home tighter and reduce your energy bill.

New studies show that by conditioning the air under the slab with a Radon system, moisture levels are lowered and the dehumidifier runs less. Some customers tell us their dehumidifiers no longer kick in at all. Other customers tell us that they no longer have moisture on the windows in the winter. This is where being a member of AARST comes in handy. Unless you go to the seminars, receive their mailings, and participate in studies, you won’t know of the changes in your industry. How then can you install the best possible system for your customers?

If you have a newer home with gravel and/or an inner drain tile system, then we can install the system in any of the unfinished areas of the basement. We try not to use sump pits for Radon systems, if at all possible. If the Radon system is in the sump pit, and the sump pump stops working, then you have to take the system apart to get to the pump. Our goal is to route the system from the basement and up through the garage.

The hardest part of radon mitigation is knowing where to install the system. Many things determine where a system can go. First, you have to meet EPA requirements; then consider the location of the HVAC duct work, plumbing pipes, electrical/cable wires, and staircases. There are building codes to meet, such as head clearance, size of holes that can be cut and where. If we only used the sump pit for a suction point, then the system would have to be located near it. What if the pit is in the opposite corner of the basement from the garage? You would not be able to route a pipe from the sump pit, across the basement and out through the garage. A short, straight shot is the best way to go when dealing with Radon. Shorter, horizontal runs are best.

We usually install what’s called a sub-slab depressurization system. It’s a vacuum system that sucks the air that contains the Radon through a single suction point that is cut through the slab. One suction point can treat a very large area if the right material is under the slab. We’ve mitigated buildings over 5,000 square feet with only one suction point. We would be drawing air through the gravel and inner drain tile, which runs to the sump pit. That is why the pit has to be sealed. If the pit were not sealed in this case, then air could be pulled from the basement area. And by sealing the pit we connect the interior & exterior drain tile by air flow.

In some cases in homes that have multi-level foundations, such as a basketball court, home theatre or multi-purpose room that the sump pit or lowest level slab would also need to have a suction point in addition to the possibility of a larger CFM fan. A suction point installed above the lowest level may not be able to reach the lowest level of the foundation, therefore not reducing Radon in that area. Radon typically will be higher in the lowest level of the home. This type of home will need to be visited for the estimate and most likely will cost more than a typical single level foundation home.

If there is sand or clay under the slab, then the sump pit should be used for the suction point. This way we are incorporating the exterior drain tile system to pull the air from under the slab. If the home has gravel, but only an exterior drain tile, and we core a hole through the slab for the suction point, then the sump pit may not have to be sealed which will save you money.

All you need to do is call us and set up an appointment to have the Radon level measured. If the level is less than 2 pCi/L, there is no need to go any further. If your level is between 2 and 4, and a lot of time is spent in the basement, or if someone sleeps there, you should consider a system. If your level is greater than 4 pCi/L, a system should be installed.

Radon Specialists of WI, Inc

We have been in business since July of 2000. Before that, I sold Radon systems for the only certified company in the Fox Valley at that time – US Plumbing. I don’t believe that being in business longer is a reason to hire anyone, no matter what it is. You need to look at the whole picture.

Radon Specialists of WI is the only company in NE WI that makes its living by strictly dealing with Radon, we do not have any other jobs or companies that we work for. Our competition may have started before us, but they don’t have more experience. Since starting in July of 2000 we have installed over 6000 (numbers will be updated periodically) mitigation systems. Almost every home inspector in our area will refer our business to do mitigation work if it is needed. We are a member of AARST, which keeps us up to date on what is happening in the Radon business across the country and holds a international symposium. I didn’t see any of my competitors in Reno NV at the Radon in 2002, or Rhode Island in 2004, Kansas City in 2006, Jacksonville FL in 2007, Las Vegas in 2008, or St. Louis in 2009 or Columbus in 2010.

Our company is also the only one that deals with Radon mitigation that is a member of the Wisconsin, Valley Home Builders Association. We participate in the Oshkosh, Fox Valley and Green Bay home shows where we have given seminars on Radon testing & mitigation.

I truly believe that we do the best job, and will explain what is going to happen and why better than most companies. We may not be the least expensive every time, but there are reasons why that is. When you weigh all the facts, quality of work, the references we can provide and our reputation I think you will decide that we are the best company in our area that does this kind of work.

We like to work Monday through Friday. But we have an installer that can install on nights during the week and on Saturday if there is a short closing time for a real-estate transaction.

We’re not bragging when we talk about our experience in this business. No other Radon mitigation business in the State of Wisconsin even comes close to the number of systems we’ve installed or the variety of installations we’ve experienced over the years.

  • No one else has made the commitment to their Radon business like I have. We have greatly increased Radon awareness, education, and quality of installs. No one else has sold the farm like I have, or put in the hours. If you really check out each Radon company and compare operations and employees, reputation and quality you will find that we are the best company to install your system. The only way our competitors will beat our price is if they are doing it wrong.
  • Our Five employees are fully trained and certified through the National Environmental Health Association for Measurement and Mitigation (NEHA). This certification is very important to your peace of mind. In the case of real estate transactions that require Radon inspection, most require the measurement company to be certified.
  • We’re fully insured and provide you with proof – a copy of our insurance certificate.
  • All of our employees have gone through a mentoring program to ensure that our customers get the best possible installation for their money.
  • We’re the only company in Eastern Wisconsin that offers the Active Dampness Control (ADC) system, where we and the fan manufacturer guarantee to lower the moisture / humidity in the basement at no extra cost.
  • We offer a fully-transferable, lifetime guarantee on all systems we install.
  • We’re the only Radon mitigation business in Wisconsin with a dedicated office and showroom for our customers. If a fan fails under warranty and you don’t want to pay a trip/labor fee (after the first year), you’ll be able to bring yours to our office and exchange it … no questions asked. We’re open from 8 am to 4 pm, and available by appointment and phone until 8 pm.
  • We’ve expanded our free Radon test program. We’ll travel up to 30-miles to drop off a tester, or you can come and pick up a tester at our shop and conduct the test yourself. The test will be conducted with a Radon monitor (with instructions) that provides a print out when the tester is brought back and allows for some interpretation. You won’t have to wait two weeks to get your results. We have do-it-yourself kits for those who want to save money on labor and install the system themselves. (You must be competent with large tools and there is no warranty on self-installed systems).
  • We’ll always look for ways to improve our systems and better serve our customers.

Our business has performed more Radon tests and installed more Radon mitigation systems since July 2000 than any other company in Wisconsin. Before we started in business the average cost of a system was over $1000; fire collars were not being included on systems in order to protect homes; companies were not guaranteeing their work or any certain Radon levels after the system was installed. There was no such thing as a “Free Radon Test.”

We’ve forced all of our competitors (through marketing, quality of work and our guarantees) to lower their prices and raise their quality of installations. Everything we’ve done and continue to do is geared toward customer service and lowering the price of systems to make them more affordable.

Competition has increased quite a bit over the years, and with that the customer always comes out on top. We’ll continue to work with government organizations and Radon organizations on a local and national level to improve techniques and quality of systems.

A guarantee is only as good as the company behind it, so go with the best company, get the best system, price, guarantee & warranty backed up in writing in the contract and quality of work in your system. This business has been around over eleven years and we will be here for many more years to come.